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RUSSO'S NEW YORK COAL-FIRED PIZZERIA: NOT BEING FRANK, BUT STILL TASTY

June 2, 2008

Houston Press



Just Fold It - Sliced Pepperoni Pizza

I tried a sliced sausage and green pepper pizza at Russo's New York Coal-Fired Pizzeria at 290 and Highway 6 over the weekend. The sausage was real Italian with a nice fennel aroma. But it was the crust that set this pizza apart. It was crunchy and slightly charred along the perimeter with a very crispy bottom and big yeast bubbles along the edges to add chewy texture.

So I can say with authority that the first coal-fired pizza oven in Houston is turning out an outstanding pie. The oven was one those red brick jobs that you find in gourmet Italian restaurants only Russo's was burning coal in it instead of the usual wood. There was a big pile of anthracite coal bags piled up on the floor in case you were wondering what kind of coal they used.


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